On to actually getting our hands dirty: Before we get started, I'm making a new acronym 'RYHST' (Remember Your Heat Shrink Tubing).įirst things first we need to be able to get to the cruise control servo's plug for soldering. If you wish to play around with this circuit, here it is plugged into a circuit simulator, just click the switches, the LED color corresponds with the wire color, and them being on just means they are getting power. I did it the way I did for a couple reasons specific to my setup. Yes it is a little complex, but if you have one each of NO and NC momentary switches, and a DPST switch as your 'enable' switch, you can eliminate the resister and relay. Parts List: (This is for my setup, if you wish to change it around, the sky is the limit.)Ģ X Push Button Momentary SPST NO Green Black Redġ X Latching On-Off Switch ( lots of options here)ġ X Assortment of Heat Shrink Tubing -> Great Value With all that in mind, here's what I came up with: Stealth Mode(Makes the PCM think nothings changed): Pin 3 - Open, Pin 2 Open, Pin 1 - Open. Increase Idle Mode: Pin 3 - 12 Volts, Pin 2 - Ground, Pin 1 - Ground.ĭecrease Idle Mode: Pin 3 - 12 Volts, Pin 2 - Open, Pin 1 - Open. Hold Idle Mode (High Idle Enabled): Pin 3 - 12 Volts, Pin 2 - Ground, Pin 1 - Open. (Optional) When the 'Enable' Switch is off, disable both the other switches. We need a way of normally having pin 2 open (not grounded), then ground it when the 'enable' switch is on, but then unground it when the 'lower idle' switch is pressed.Īnd then lastely, we need to be able to ground pin 1, very simple, any NO (Normally Open) Switch will do. We need to supply Pin 3 with 12 volts, I originally thought I could just turn on the stock cruise control system, however it became obvious that the PCM monitors the system closely, and can detect our fooling around and will shut the power back off, not letting us turn it back one again until the next start up. By placing diodes in the circuit, it will let the PCM feed the servo as normal, but won't let us back feed it. Diodes only let current flow in one direction, they're the check valve of the electronics world. But there is something else that we need to remember, if we plan on having cruise control still, we must modify the system in a way that the PCM can still function correctly.įirst things first, we need to make sure be don't back feed the PCM which can cause damage, for this we'll use diodes. With our new found knowledge, it has become obvious what needs to be done. By grounding this pin, it opens the 'vacuum' valve allowing vacuum into the servo increasing the throttle. Pin 1 (tan/red) gets grounded selectively by the PCM. By ungrounding the pin, it will allow vacuum out of the servo decreasing throttle. Pin 2 (green/red) gets grounded selectively by the PCM, By grounding this pin, it closes the "vent" valve, thus allowing the servo to hold vacuum. Without power to this pin, nothing happens. Suppling this pin with power closes the "Dump" valve. This is the main feed for the system, it supplies power to all 3 solenoid valves within the servo. Pin 3 (blue/red) gets 12 volts from the PCM, through the brake switch when enabled. DIY High Idle using the Stock Cruise Control Servo.įirst off, before being able to modify the system for high idle, we must understand what we are working with.
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